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Installing a tub isn't precisely rocket science, however it does call for solid plumbing, woodworking, and often, tiling abilities. Replacing an old tub with a new one is likewise a moderately tough project. If the old tub is conveniently accessible, the job can relocate speedily; if you have to open a wall surface to remove the old tub and place the brand-new bathtub, the task is a lot harder. In either case, the job is within a residence handyman's abilities, although you will need an assistant to leave the old bathtub and set in the new one. See to it you have qualified yourself for the work and also are comfortable attempting it. As opposed to working with a specialist to take over a halfway-completed task, it is far better to consider utilizing one prior to you start. Opportunities are you may need a specialist plumber to make tube connections.
This short article will certainly aid you mount a brand-new bathtub in your restroom if you have currently acquired a brand-new bathtub and don't need to alter the plan of your previous water system pipelines.
Your devices and also product list need to consist of the following:
Removing Old Taps
If you require to replace old taps with brand-new ones as a part of your installation, then the first thing you should do is disconnect the water supply. After doing so, turn on the taps to drain any water remaining in the system. The process of removing the existing taps can be fairly bothersome as a result of the restricted access that is frequently the case.
Use a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a faucet tool to undo the nut that connects the supply pipes to the taps. Have a towel all set for the continuing to be water that will certainly originate from the pipes. Once the supply pipes have actually been gotten rid of, make use of the very same tool to loosen up the nut that holds the faucets onto the bath/basin. You will require to quit the single faucets from transforming during this process. As soon as the taps have actually been eliminated, the holes in the bath/basin will need to be cleaned up of any old securing substance.
Before going on to fit the brand-new taps, contrast the pipeline connections on the old faucets to the new taps. If the old taps are longer than the brand-new taps, then a shank adapter is needed for the new faucets to fit.
Fitting New Touches
If the tails of the new taps are plastic, after that you will require a plastic adapter to avoid damage to the string. One end of the port fits on the plastic tail of the faucet as well as the other end gives a connection to the current supply pipes.
If you need to fit a monobloc, after that you will call for decreasing couplers, which attaches the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the basic 15mm supply pipeline.
Next off, position the faucet in the installing hole in the bath/basin making certain that the washers are in location between the faucet and the sink. Protect the tap in position with the producer provided backnut. As soon as the tap is firmly in place, the supply pipelines can be linked to the tails of the taps. The faucets can either be connected by utilizing corrugated copper piping or with typical faucet connectors. The previous type must be connected to the faucet ends initially, tightening just by hand. The supply pipes can later on be connected to the various other end. Tighten up both ends with a spanner after both ends have been attached.
Setting up the Bath tub
Utilizing both wooden boards under its feet, position the bathtub in the called for position. The wood boards are useful in equally spreading the weight of the tub over the area of the boards as opposed to focusing all the weight onto 4 small points.
The following goal is to make sure that the bathtub is leveled all round. This can be accomplished by examining the spirit level and also adjusting the feet on the bathtub up until the level reads degree.
To mount taps, fit all-time low of the outermost flexible faucet adapter to the suitable supply pipeline by making a compression sign up with; then do the exact same for the other faucet.
Activate the supply of water as well as examine all joints and brand-new pipework for leakages and tighten them if needed. Load the bathtub and likewise inspect the overflow electrical outlet and also the normal outlet for leakages.
Ultimately, fix the bath paneling as defined in the manufacturer's instruction manual. Tiling as well as securing around the bath tub should wait until the tub has actually been utilized at the very least when as this will settle it into its last placement.
Planning for the Installation
Firstly, the supporting framework provided with the bath must be fitted (if needed) according to the supplier's guidelines. Next, fit the taps or mixer to the bathtub. When fitting the tap block, it is very important to make certain that if the faucet features a plastic washing machine, it is fitted in between the bathroom and also the faucets. On a plastic bath, it is likewise practical to fit a supporting plate under the taps system to avoid stress on the tub.
Fit the versatile faucet adapters to the bottom of both faucets using 2 nuts and olives (in some cases supplied with the tub). Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet hole, and then pass the outlet through the hole in the bath. Use the nut supplied by the supplier to fit the plug-hole. Examine the plug-hole electrical outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipeline.
Next off, fit the end of the adaptable overflow pipeline to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipeline to the overflow face which need to be fitted inside the bathroom. Ensure you use every one of the provided washers.
Connect the trap to the bottom of the waste outlet on the tub by winding the thread of the waste outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the catch to the electrical outlet. Link the bottom of the overflow tube in a similar manner.The bathroom need to currently be ready to be fitted in its final placement.
Tiling Around the Bath tub
In the area where the bathroom fulfills the ceramic tile, it is required to seal the accompanies a silicone rubber caulking. This is very important as the fitting can move sufficient to split a stiff seal, causing the water to permeate the wall between the bathroom as well as the tiling, resulting in complications with wetness as well as possible leakages to the ceiling listed below.
You can choose from a selection of coloured sealers to blend in your components as well as fittings. They are offered in tubes and cartridges, and also can sealing voids as much as a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a bigger space to fill, you can load it with twists of drenched paper or soft rope. Keep in mind to always load the tub with water prior to securing, to allow for the activity experienced when the tub remains in use. The sealer can split fairly very early if you do not consider this activity prior to securing.
Conversely, ceramic coving or quadrant tiles can be made use of to edge the bathroom or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and reduce to size, are additionally quickly readily available on the market. It is suggested to fit the ceramic tiles utilizing water-resistant or water resistant glue as well as cement.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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